B String Fret Buzz on Legrand

[tomvwash]

...trying for DYI instead of the luthier, and this should not be rocket science. The only fret buzz is on the B string--7th fret and up, but actually fine after fret 11 or so. Is this a finger tailpiece adjustment, or higher bridge set for treble side? Not sure if I have to work with the truss rood. Thank you for any advice here.

[deacon Mark]

Not a truss rod problem almost certain and rare is it when things are only in a spot. You have a high fret or a low fret they both do the same thing. You will need to get a Fret Rocker but, in a pinch, you can use any steel metal straight edge like a mini ruler and check. Mostly likely it will show a small rocking motion and that will be where the fret will need to be dress down a bit.

It will help to know the gauge of the B string. Check the relief in the neck to from fret 1 through 14 where it joins body. Use the middle g string as a straight edge pressing down fret 1 and fret 14. A very small gap can usually be seen with the eyes. If you need more assistance PM me.

[AllanAllen]

I would check for high frets with a fret rocker, or credit card.

[sgosnell]

Being only the B string, it could be that the saddle slot for that string is too deep. It can be filled, or the rest of the slots deepened a little. I've used both cyanoacrylate/sodium bicarbonate and UV resin to do that. I prefer the UV resin because it's easier to work with. The best fix is probably just taking material off the top of the saddle and making all the slots match in depth.

[nevershouldhavesoldit]

Being only the B string, it could be that the saddle slot for that string is too deep. It can be filled, or the rest of the slots deepened a little. I've used both cyanoacrylate/sodium bicarbonate and UV resin to do that. I prefer the UV resin because it's easier to work with. The best fix is probably just taking material off the top of the saddle and making all the slots match in depth.

But then the nut would have to be shimmed, if the problem is too deep a B slot. Cutting the rest will simply spread the problem to the other strings if you don’t raise the nut. But this doesn’t sound like a slot issue to me. A deep slot normally causes buzz on “lower” frets (1, 2, 3).

If the buzz is only on the B string between 7th and 11th frets, the most likely cause is a low 6th fret under the B. If there’s a visible dimple in it there, there’s probably similar wear on all and the frets need a level / crown / polish if there’s enough meat left. It’d be unusual if the frets are fine except for the 7th. A setup will include a check for relief, since there’s probably a concavity between 7 and 11 that might require truss rod adjustment.

[tomvwash]

But then the nut would have to be shimmed, if the problem is too deep a B slot. Cutting the rest will simply spread the problem to the other strings if you don’t raise the nut. But this doesn’t sound like a slot issue to me. A deep slot normally causes buzz on “lower” frets (1, 2, 3).

If the buzz is only on the B string between 7th and 11th frets, the most likely cause is a low 6th fret under the B. If there’s a visible dimple in it there, there’s probably similar wear on all and the frets need a level / crown / polish if there’s enough meat left. It’d be unusual if the frets are fine except for the 7th. A setup will include a check for relief, since there’s probably a concavity between 7 and 11 that might require truss rod adjustment.

I've already taken it over to the luthier for a setup and check up. He always gets to the root cause. Thank you for the comments.

[sgosnell]

I'm talking about the slot in the saddle, not the nut. Having that too deep will make the action on that string too low, even if the action measured on the E string is fine. I've seen it more than once. But without handling the guitar, it's obviously just a guess.

[nevershouldhavesoldit]

I'm talking about the slot in the saddle, not the nut. Having that too deep will make the action on that string too low, even if the action measured on the E string is fine. I've seen it more than once. But without handling the guitar, it's obviously just a guess.

It's the same situation at both ends of the string. If the bridge saddle B slot is too deep, deepening the rest would also require raising the bridge to eliminate the buzz. But if it's the bridge saddle height (assuming this is a guitar that has separate saddles or slots - the OP doesn't describe the guitar), a low B saddle is not likely to cause only buzzing on 7 to 11. It's rare for frets higher than the body join to be worn as much as the lower ones on a jazz guitar. So if there's buzzing at 11 from a low bridge, there's almost always buzzing at and above the body join too unless there's a serious bow in the neck.

[sgosnell]

The frets may indeed not be level, and the neck may have a hump. That's impossible to tell from long distance over the internet. But since it seems to be only on one string, the possibility of a deeper saddle slot does occur to me, and that could be the easiest fix. Having slightly higher action at the higher frets isn't necessarily the worst thing that could happen. I wouldn't bet the rent money on anything, though, since obviously I can't actually see what's happening. Since he's taken it to someone who presumably knows what he's doing, it should get worked out somehow.

[wintermoon]

If it's a deep slot which I agree w nshsi isn't likely the issue, that's easily remedied w some cyanoacrylate, accelerator and a recut slot.

[deacon Mark]

It is a high or low fret I am almost certain. BTY, I am working on a Holst guitar and the 3rd string buzzing open slot too low. Well tried the recut the slot but seems that no matter what I have to go far enough to hold the string that it causes a buzz. Have to cut a whole new nut and that is an expensive fix for in note in the open position. Damn!

[tomvwash]

It is a high or low fret I am almost certain. BTY, I am working on a Holst guitar and the 3rd string buzzing open slot too low. Well tried the recut the slot but seems that no matter what I have to go far enough to hold the string that it causes a buzz. Have to cut a whole new nut and that is an expensive fix for in note in the open position. Damn!

The Legrand is also missing the B string Finger / Fine Tuning bolt piece. Philly Luthier Shop, maybe?

[paulkogut]

If it's the nut, you could try slipping a torn corner of a dollar bill (I've also used Euros and 1000 yen) into the slot and see if it helps....

PK

[nevershouldhavesoldit]

The Legrand is also missing the B string Finger / Fine Tuning bolt piece. Philly Luthier Shop, maybe?

Did you try damping the string and finger by wedging something between the tailpiece and the top? It’s too much of a coincidence that the string with the missing tailpiece part is also the one that’s buzzing.

I’ve assumed it has the original wood bridge, since you didn’t state otherwise.

[tomvwash]

Did you try damping the string and finger by wedging something between the tailpiece and the top? It’s too much of a coincidence that the string with the missing tailpiece part is also the one that’s buzzing.

I’ve assumed it has the original wood bridge, since you didn’t state otherwise.

No, thanks for asking. It is still at the luthier's, who is switching out the TOM bridge for the original Ebony, sorry, should have clarified this for above threads. I can't locate at tuning finger bolt, meanwhile! Philly Luthier does not stock them

[nevershouldhavesoldit]

No, thanks for asking. It is still at the luthier's, who is switching out the TOM bridge for the original Ebony, sorry, should have clarified this for above threads. I can't locate at tuning finger bolt, meanwhile! Philly Luthier does not stock them

I'm pretty sure it's either made by Oettinger or a copy of their tailpiece mechanism. These were made for banjos as well as guitars, and I'll bet the screws are the same size for both. If I'm right, Gryphon has replacement screws for it. Theirs are brass, so they won't match your tailpiece exactly. But if they're the same size as your originals, you can use one until you find a proper replacement (which could take a long time). You could also buy a second one and have it gold plated - they're only $9.50. If they fit, and the loose finger is the cause of your buzzing, you're way ahead of the game despite a color mismatch.

They're 8-32 screws. If that's the size on your tailpiece, you could just use an 8-32 Allen head bolt (internal hex) with a fluted or knurled head.

[tomvwash]

I'm pretty sure it's either made by Oettinger or a copy of their tailpiece mechanism. These were made for banjos as well as guitars, and I'll bet the screws are the same size for both. If I'm right, Gryphon has replacement screws for it. Theirs are brass, so they won't match your tailpiece exactly. But if they're the same size as your originals, you can use one until you find a proper replacement (which could take a long time). You could also buy a second one and have it gold plated - they're only $9.50. If they fit, and the loose finger is the cause of your buzzing, you're way ahead of the game despite a color mismatch.

They're 8-32 screws. If that's the size on your tailpiece, you could just use an 8-32 Allen head bolt (internal hex) with a fluted or knurled head.

Legrand is back home and plays like butter, again! We found the finger bolt hiding in the case crevice fabric, nice! A little twist here and some pull there on the B string, all good!

[JazzNote]

Legrand is back home and plays like butter, again! We found the finger bolt hiding in the case crevice fabric, nice! A little twist here and some pull there on the B string, all good!

Great!

Do you know if he did anything else besides adding the bolt to get rid of the buzz, and what exactly that would be?

If yes please post.

TIA

[tomvwash]

Great!

Do you know if he did anything else besides adding the bolt to get rid of the buzz, and what exactly that would be?

If yes please post.

TIA

It was from the missing bolt, and I wish that I had noticed that missing bolt tuner from the start!