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I'm exploring the possibilities of going to a 1x10 format and would love some of your thoughts. Instead of going with a generic cab and speaker... is it worth it to spend a couple hundred more for EarCandy or RE? I'm running a Heritage Eagle (or a 335 sometimes) through a Quilter Aviator head. Thoughts about 10" speakers would be welcomed. Thanks!
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02-17-2015 07:20 PM
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I have a 1x10" RE cabinet and love it. A single 10" in a good cabinet can put out a full range of sound and be very punchy. I don't know if size is an issue, but I'd suggested checking out a 2x8" also.
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I have a RE 10" JG cabinet and with my Henriksen head at halfway volume I can be clearly heard in a big band if playing unison lines etc with an entire horn section. I think cabs make a big difference.
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I like 1x10 cabs, and EarCandy makes cool cabs. You're looking at their stuff on reverb.com, right?
One recommendation: buy it unloaded, and put your own speaker in it.
One of my "problems" with the Aviator -- which is a great amp! -- is their recommendation that extension cabs need to be "200W;" have you found a 200W 10" speaker yet?? I haven't (but I haven't looked everywhere, of course). You can get a 2x8 at 200W, or a 12", but does anyone know a 10"???
Marc
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EVM-10L 200w, EVM-10M 300w. Good luck finding one though
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You don't need a 200w cab. The aviator with an ext cab effectively delivers 100 to the built in cab and 100 to the ext.
Originally Posted by marcwhy
That being said the earcandy Ethan is rated at 250 watts. I got one as a cheaper alternative to RE however they seem to have gone up in price.
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Eminence Beta 10 is 250W. Often used with Henriksen.
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The OP has an Aviator head, not combo, and the "200W" recommendation is from the Quilter owner's manual -- disobey at your own risk. Originally Posted by drbhrb
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Also Mambo, Evans.. and Polytone's OEM speaker should be similar. But it's a bass speaker, can sound nice with archtops though. Originally Posted by Spook410
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Firstly, Ear Candy makes GREAT cabs. I have a open back 1x12" from them (pic below) and a 1x8" ported cab being built now. If you browse his listings on reverb.com, you'll notice a little variance in his pricing for basically the same cabs, so there's sometimes room to negotiate price I've found. I've owned a Raezers Edge 1x10 as well and it is also fantastic quality. Both Ear Candy and Raezers Edge are worth it IMHO.
As far as the Aviator... Can someone clarify the wattage for me? It seems to be it's really a 100 watt per channel head. Meaning if you're only using one channel, you're at 100 watts, right? I'm not complaining that that's not alot or anything, it's more than I'd need and in fact I have a Tone Block on its way to me as we speak, which I believe is the same output/power/setup...but unless you use both channels simultaneously, it doesn't appear to put out 200 watts from the specs below. Actually looking closer at the Tone Block, it might really be 200 watts from its single channel. But doesn't seem that way on the Aviator if I'm understanding it correctly.
Channel 1: 100 W RMS
Channel 2: 100 W RMS
Total: 200 W RMS, 4-8 ohms
Last edited by monkmiles; 02-18-2015 at 11:53 AM.
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Yet the aviator cab they sell comes with a speaker rated at only 80 watts: Originally Posted by marcwhy
http://www.quilterlabs.com/index.php...inch-extension
http://www.guitarcenter.com/Celestion-Classic-Lead-80-80W--12--Guitar-Speaker-100148816-i1153683.gc?country=us¤cy=usd&source=4WWRWXG P&gclid=Cj0KEQiAjZGnBRCOuJOUo9Xd0sUBEiQAPbicNx2SJj TpjWiOOyZjwr786Ci5EKPcipXweNkHVJ2zoJMaArrK8P8HAQ&k wid=productads-plaid^87255458322-sku^100148816@ADL4GC-adType^PLA-device^c-adid^44639487282
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I'm stupid on speakers, but I thought the Aviator was 100W per channel. So, for twin 10s doesn't that mean you only need 50W for each speaker? Originally Posted by marcwhy
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It is somewhat confusing. The Aviator is 100w per channel however as I understand it when you are using 2 cabs(or the combo+ext) you get the full 200w and peak power can hit 300w. I think it would work out that combining an 8ohm cab with the 8ohm combo would lower the total ohm load to 4 which would cut the power to 100w. Meaning you can use 100w ext cabs. This would explain them using an 80watt speaker(80w vs 100w isn't a big difference). Although if I'm wrong someone please correct me if I'm wrong. Originally Posted by ingeneri
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I can only comment on my likes but here goes! I used to have 2 Ear Candy 1x10" closed back cabs w/ Eminence Ragin Cajuns speakers. While nice sounding, I always go back to 12" speakers. I run either a Quilter Aviator 1x12" Combo w/ a WGS ET90 (open back cab) or a Tone Block 200 w/ 1 or 2 Egnater Rebel (closed back 1x12" cab) w/ Jensen Tornado Neo speakers. Both rigs sound great in any situation, have plenty of clean headroom and most importantly light weight!
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Thanks folks! This has been helpful. Currently I run 1x12 and 1x15 both neo eminence reconed with hempcones housed in generic (read cheap) cabs. Playing a Heritage Eagle with floater KA PAF I run into a little "howling" even with ParaEQ - so I'm wondering if a high quality 10" cab would help me out without losing the full bodied tone. Not sure if that made sense but...
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or should I seriously consider a raezer's edge stealth 12??
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Nice rig!! Originally Posted by hallpass
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Well, going from a 1x12 and 1x15 to a 1x10 alone will definitely sound different! Originally Posted by vernon
It kinda goes back to what you're trying to accomplish, and in what context (i.e., bedroom, gig, etc.) … What do you not like about your current setup??
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I love 10s for guitar. Think they sit incredibly well in the mix live and make it easy to get a clear and full tone without feeling like you need to turn up. 12s to me sound great when you're playing solo guitar on a gig or at home, but I always feel like I have better tone when I'm gigging through something with 10s in it. I'm curious about that little Ear Candy 2x8. I've come close to buying one a few times now. Like others have mentioned, where do you primarily play?
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I play primarily at home and in small ensembles in fairly intimate settings. I guess what I may be after is a more focused tone. The 12 and 15 yield a big round kind of sound, which I like... but I'm missing some focus and balance throughout the frequency spectrum.
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Or an Ear Candy 1x12". Another thing about Ear Candy is he/Tim will customize a cab for you, with or without speaker. If you wanted a ported 1x12 he has those too. Plus each of my cabs cost me less than the Raezers Edge 1x10 cab I used to have. I don't mean to sound like a fan boy but maybe everyone doesn't know that Ear Candy will customize from porting to speaker to tolex to paneled fronts, etc. Originally Posted by vernon
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That's the same feeling I had when I was playing 12s and I've never had that problem with 10s. Originally Posted by vernon
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The bigger the speaker the louder you need to be to drive it to its sweet spot. Also their sound developers further away from the cabinet so harder to hear yourself when close. That's the nice thing about dual 10"'s or 8"'s your pushing more air and have lots of bottom. Originally Posted by vernon
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Thanks docbop - that makes a lot of sense. The room I play in most is small. So now I'm wondering about a 2x8. Is the bottom end full enough?
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The "Quilter-wattage" confusion thing has gone back and forth over at The Gear Page, where "Chris" (Quilter CEO?) is fairly active. I found a few of his responses, the first of which he was responding to how "dangerous" it was to use a lower-than-recommended wattage speaker. [For what it's worth, I used a 75W, 10" speaker, with my Aviator head, but never needed the volume past "3" at small gigs, and it was fine.]
It isn't necessarily dangerous, just be sure to go beneath the power of the speaker.
(Start off at 1/4 volume and slowly turn up. If you hear it bottom out, back off.)
Let me clear this up for everyone.
We are actually using 1 400 watt amplifier.
We control each of the two inputs and limit them so they can only produce up to 100 watts. (Very similar to tube amps, the extra headroom allows voltage overshoot when you are digging in. A small part of the secret recipe.) If you use only one channel at a time the most you will get from an Aviator or MicroPro is 100 watts. If you for example were to plug in a guitar and a microphone to a MicroPro then the mic could get up to 100 watts while simultaneously allowing up to 100 watts for the guitar.
Now with our Steelaire or Tone Block 200 they really only have a single input to the power amplifier so they are in fact capable of going to 200 watts with a single input. But bear in mind that all of our amplifiers have that voltage overshoot and sag just like a tube amp. This is one of the reasons people who aren't expecting much from our 100 watts are so surprised when they start playing. The behaviors are similar and in an analog way, not digital so the tonal feedback of the speaker is at play and the feel is there. Hope this all helps and don't be shy to ask questions. I am always glad to help. (This is Chris from Quilter Labs.)
Couple of quick responses.
1) Chris at Quilter Labs informed me somehow they are able to simultaneously use 100 watts per channel, and still use a 100 watt rated speaker. WOW, how's that done?
(Actually, it is pretty rare when someone would do that. I can tell you from experience that when you dime the amp out it is pretty darn loud. Two people doing that at the same time would be earsplitting. It is far more likely that one person would use only one channel at a time. i.e. switching from clean to dirty. That said, we have a speaker watchdog circuit that does "sense" when a speaker heats up and impedance begins to drop. When that happens it changes how the amplifier clips. It is very subtle and quite honestly you would be hard pressed to actually hear it. Especially at those kinds of levels. All this said, the final how comes from Celestion who tend to under rate their speakers. We power test the "qualified" speakers we use at very high levels for hours on end to ensure that they do not fail later.) Hope that helps. Of course there is much more devil in the details but we also don't exactly want to post schematics either. (Obviously.) Hope that helps. (Incidentally. Don't get too hung up on the idea of 100 watts or 200 watts. Our amp is actually 400 watts. That is part of the patent pending technology that allows our product to truly behave in the same manner as a tube amp does.
2) Teemuk "It's 100W to one speaker output (e.g. internal speaker) and another 100W to the second speaker output (e.g. external speaker cab)."
First off, "Hi Teemuk! We are a big fan of your many postings and many nice words. You are one of the only folks who recognized Pat as the inventor of the Master volume. You are one sharp fellow!" All that said...
Actually yes, you can get a full 200 watts into one speaker out of only one jack. See above for the info and limitations. (In fact if you use a second, it distributes the power across
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