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I have two black 335's, a 2000 and 1990. I know, why buy two same models in the same color. The second was in a LGS and had "an issue" near the head. The price was excellent, it had new frets and it played and sounded just like my VGC 1990.
I guess I want to strip and refinish it in a trans black burst. So where do I start? I don't want it to turn into a $1000 project so I am thinking I will strip it and get it finished.
Any tips on stripping and prepping it and recomendations on refinishers?
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07-12-2016 04:36 AM
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I am a handy man but I know my limist so I would sell the another black and buy a burst 335 instead. I guess this is a lazy man refinishing method!
But all handy men are not as lazy:
ES-335 top refinish - MyLesPaul.com
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Dunno about that video being a Gibson, the head was always covered or not filmed.
Every Gibson I have seen damaged either had chips or wide cracks after a damaging hit meaning the finish is brittle. A rubbery finish would show neither a crack or chip.
Anyway, I want a BLACK burst something I cannot get by selling either of mine... with the Gibson name on it anyway.
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If it is a poly finish good luck. It can be done with expensive chemical strippers but they can desolve the bindings. Some recommend a heat gun but it too can melt the bindings. And most glue starts to melt at about 180 degrees that's why a guitar left in a car hot car will warp. Sanding a poly finish takes forever, maybe a little longer.
If finish is nitro or lacquer good old lacquer thinner will strip the finish. It may strip the bindings too. Be careful.
I have a poly finished Epi 335 that I surface sanded and sprayed with solid black and painted on bindings, then clear coated polished and waxed. It's my project guitar so it wasn't worth a lot to start with.
look up guitar finishers on line. There is a lot of information on stripping and refinishing guitars.
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I would NOT do a refin on a Gibson. You will spend money to devalue an instrument.
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A word of warning: you may not like what you find under the finish. It's not a universal law but a lot of times black finishes are reserved for wood that builders would prefer not to be seen.
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stripping a guitar can be a tough and ugly job...with chemicals & dust that you are better off not being around..esp. without the proper $afety gear
before you do anything, contact curt wilson...he's a long time member of the gretschpages forum..does insane good repair/refinishing...send him your info and see what he can do
About Old School Guitar Repair, Restoration & Lutherie Old School Guitar Repair, Restoration & Lutherie
cheers
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Jim, got it, I do not expect AAA flame maple, but unless it has knots... hey I might actually LIKE knots. A black burst may look cool regardless whether or not the wood is funky.
Stringswinger, the head/neck has an issue and I paid a price for it that was already SUBSTANTIALLY devalued so it can only go up from here.
Anyway what I think I will do is dam up the rim so the binding doesn't melt and spot test the top with stripping agents.
The neck appears to be really dark walnut and I am thinking a stinger on the head to cover the issue / crack with the rest of the neck being natural.
For sure it will be one of a kind.
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Stripping an instrument means sanding. I would not go anywhere near an instrument with chemical paint strippers. However, if you really want to...
If you want to see a pro strip and refinish without crazy expensive tools:
He also shows a small shop black burst:
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLast edited by rlrhett; 07-12-2016 at 09:29 PM.
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Originally Posted by Rong
Refinishing is another store entirely - theyre are many ways to do it, including hiring a professional.
Trans-black can be nice.Last edited by Hammertone; 07-12-2016 at 11:39 PM.
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If you have never sprayed nitrocellulose before, then there is a chance you could get it right the first time. Also, if you have never played Giant Steps, you could study a transcription and perform it for an audience the first time with no practice too...but unlikely.
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Nitro is fairly easy to strip but the plastic binding tends to melt with most strippers and also with lacquer thinner if left on long enough.
The tough part is getting the black color out of the wood so you have a consistent surface for your new color, especially if the existing base coats are color coats. This usually requires sanding and you'll have to be very careful as an ES-335 is laminate - I've seen someone sand through the top layer of laminate over the contours, especially the top/back at the horns.
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Maybe you could work with the advice of a local expert, do the donkey work yourself
and then have him 'shoot' it.
Best of luck with this.
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Originally Posted by Herbie
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Just wanted to chime in a friendly DON'T DO IT; if you want a different color, buy a different color guitar. As mentioned above in not so many words, a lot of folks who have been making guitars and furniture for years, hire a specialist to do their finishing. The chances of you screwing up and taking a big loss is as high as the chances of you doing a good job is low.
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Sorry, maybe you didn't read my op.
The neck has a head with an issue, I cannot get a black burst or trans black 335 AND I AM NOT heavily invested in it.
That said. .
I have a LOT of furniture stripping and refinishing experience so I have been looking for guidance on getting the top and neck stripped and prepped for a pro finish.Last edited by GNAPPI; 07-14-2016 at 12:01 AM.
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Get hold of Freddy G on MLP. If you don't have an account there with sufficient posts, PM me here, and I'll relay your questions. I can't promise an answer, of course, but I'll help if I can.
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GNAPPI,
Sorry, I didn't read carefully enough.
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Me too, sorry, no offense I hope.
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No offense at all, I just wanted to get my needs and intention clear.
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