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It's time I got one.
I'm inclined to get an, um, inclined one. (Where the power supply can fit underneath and the pedals are angled slightly upward.)
But I'm open to other suggestions.
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12-20-2020 03:59 PM
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Come to the Dark Side ....
I have a Temple Audio board; nice system, no "velcro mess," room underneath for power, sturdy; mine came with a carrying case, too!
Here it is (with a Cioks power source underneath):
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Originally Posted by marcwhy
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Originally Posted by marcwhy
cheers
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Originally Posted by marcwhy
You can attach pedals with their proprietary gizmos, Velcro, or cable ties.
They have a module for ins and outs as well. Only drawback with the Cooks, it takes proprietary cables.
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Schmidt Array. Schmidt Array Taurus pedalboards
Acoustic Remedy. Pedal Boards
Raezer's Edge. Middy Pedal Board - Raezer's Edge
3M Dual Lock Access Denied
Strymon Ojai or Zuma.
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I have a few..
Gator - works fine. Sturdy. A little heavy. Case is adequate. Got it on sale and it's solid.
Pedaltrain - Light for size. Popular models so underside power supply mounting kits fit. Bag is fine. A well sorted board many of us use. Bag is OK and has an outside pocket.
Mono - Very nicely finished chunk of aluminum. My main board. You don't get the bag with it. And the bag is stupid expensive (for a bag). But together they make a really nice pedal board set up and I feel it was money well spent every time I leave the house with it. Especially when you figure how much you have invested.
Other thoughts: There are different pedal to board attachment methods. Some of the velcro types are very, very strong. Too much for my uses. I re-arrange from time to time and don't want to get out the breaker bar to get a pedal off. On the other hand, I don't think the picture hanging stuff is strong enough though it is non-marring and some prefer it. If you're going to try it, you need to give it a shot before the velcro goes down on the board. Overall I like middle-of-the-road velcro. Except for the hair from my white siamese.
Other other thoughts: The power consumption of pedals has gone out the roof so you need outlets with lots of power. The last generation supplies aren't really enough. The Strymon Zuma is a good supply and the one I use every day. However, the MXR ISO Mini-Brick is also good and is small enough (the size of a small pedal) to sit on top. And I like that the transformer on the MXR's is away from the board. Seems quieter. Just be sure you make a list of the 18V, 12V, and 9V amps you need. Also connector polarity. You would think it would be standardized by now but it's not.
Final other thoughts: You'll need zip ties in different lengths (4", 6", 10", 14"). More than you think for all the do-over's. Extra velcro. Again, more than you would think. A piece of paper listing every pedal with it's power and amp requirements as well as connector polarity. Not like your going to remember. A putty knife for prying open pedal to board connections after you thought you were done (again). Male-to-male 1ft connectors and 1.5ft connectors. Along with some a bit longer (2ft-3ft). Haven't had a problem with the cheap ones but that's counter-intuitive. Small, flat 90 degree connectors are a requirement. A few male-to-male adapters (no cable) for when you can get away with them. Plenty of power supply to pedal leads in varying lengths. I found what came with the power supply to be adequate. Sharp scissors for velcro tape. Hot glue gun is nice for when velcro sticky (glue) side isn't cooperating.
Yea. Dark side. But there are so many fun pedals out there.
Bonus: if you put all the pedal board organizing bits in a box, they will be in one place for the inevitable board do-over's. Oh.. and a 3 foot power extension off the board is really handy. Can reach either the breakout or the next extension to the breakout. And fits in your pedalboard bag.
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I have had a really great experience with Spencer Henderson at West Coast Pedal Board: Pedalboards | Premium Pedalboard Gear | Worldwide Shipping. While the boards do use the Velcro method of attachment Spencer uses the highest quality of those materials along with the electrical components like Switchcraft, Puretone, and Mogami. And, his custom hardwood boards are works of art. I hope to order one of his hardwood boards some day. I have one of his 12" x 24" Tolex boards and everything is of the highest quality. And, his customer service is fantastic. He also has pedal board kits if you into doing that sort of thing.
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Pedalboard, hell yeah! I still remember the exciting moment I got my first one (used) about 35 years ago. Nowadays I have some tenth or twentieth version and everything is now easier than then.
There is plethora of boards and accessories available nowadays. Most are pro enough to get the system noiseless and firm. The biggest issue may be the power supply, it should have isolated outputs.
Why not to choose the one who started the whole idea? A british ex-aviation tech Peter Cornish made them to David Gilmour etc british giants, and started a whole new music industry!
Effects Pedal Board Systems
(No, I am not among Cornish clientele. A Pedaltrain Classic Junior is ok for my current needs.)Last edited by Herbie; 12-21-2020 at 03:21 AM.
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And here is some general advice for building Your own pedal board:
The Custom Boards guide for building your own pedalboard– Custom Boards Finland
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You could check this out too: Smart Track(R) The velcro alternative pedalboard | Aclam Guitars
I have no experience with the board. I used to have the Dr. Robbert pedal.
In general: determine how many pedals you need/want and get a board that is just big enough to accommodate. That way you won't be tempted to buy more pedals you don't need. I have a Pedaltrain Nano with a tuner, EQ, OD and the MSR Iso brick mini tucked under the board. It fits in the Mono Tick, which attaches to my gig bag. Leaves me with one hand for my DV Little Jazz and one hand to operate train doors, train tickets, etc.
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MXR ISO Mini-Brick is also good and is small enough (the size of a small pedal) to sit on top
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I prefer a simpler approach. Small boards, no brick type power supplies.
Two boards, both Pedaltrain. For jazz practice, the Nano. 5 pedals fit snugly. (In truth, only 3 of these are essential, always on.) Powered by a Godlyke PowerAll daisychain supply. The other board is the Mini, with one more pedal, same power supply.
I have used brick type, isolated power supplies in the past. No knock on these from me, but they're overkill for my needs. The Godlyke supplies have never failed me. Never any noise or any issues at all. Two things enable space saving on boards: using pancake (flat) plugs on the cable connections, and using right angle plugs on the Powerall cable.
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A great and no cost solution, especially if you don't gig it, is to go to IKEA and buy a thing they have for shoes. I bought a small and a big one for 3 and 5 euros each some years back.
They are exactly like my pedaltrains, only made of wood. Some Velcro and you're ready.
The small one is the one in the middle in the photo, I used it for an acoustic board, and it works fine.
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I ordered the Donner DB-S200. I think it will suffice for my current (and near-future) needs.
Here's a video review.
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I have the big Donner board. It looks a bit empty now but one of these days I'll set up the looper and it will make more sense...
How does this sound?
Today, 04:50 PM in Guitar, Amps & Gizmos