The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
  1. #1

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    I have noticed that there is a very significant difference in feel and play ability between Ibanez and Eastman guitars that i own or have owned. The Eastmans have been either 25-inch [AR503] or 24.75 inch [AR371] scale length while the Ibanez have all been 24.75-inch [SJ-300, AF-155, AFJ-957]. Even when strung with similar strings; TI Swings or D'Addario XLs, and set to similar actions; the two Eastman guitars are significantly more difficult to play. Even going to TI Swing 11s on the Eastman 371 it causes more finger pain in the fretting hand than TI Swing 13s on The SJ-300.

    Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated. Could it be something as simple as fret size or material?

    Cheers

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  3. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by thelostboss
    I have noticed that there is a very significant difference in feel and play ability between Ibanez and Eastman guitars that i own or have owned. The Eastmans have been either 25-inch [AR503] or 24.75 inch [AR371] scale length while the Ibanez have all been 24.75-inch [SJ-300, AF-155, AFJ-957]. Even when strung with similar strings; TI Swings or D'Addario XLs, and set to similar actions; the two Eastman guitars are significantly more difficult to play. Even going to TI Swing 11s on the Eastman 371 it causes more finger pain in the fretting hand than TI Swing 13s on The SJ-300.

    Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated. Could it be something as simple as fret size or material?

    Cheers
    I have both an Ibanez AFJ 95 and an Eastman AR 372 and don't find the Eastman difficult to play at all. I like it better than the Ibanez because of its slightly rounder neck profile. Maybe that's what's bugging you - neck shape / profile / thickness?

  4. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by TOMMO
    I have both an Ibanez AFJ 95 and an Eastman AR 372 and don't find the Eastman difficult to play at all. I like it better than the Ibanez because of its slightly rounder neck profile. Maybe that's what's bugging you - neck shape / profile / thickness?
    Thanks for thinking of this but I don't think it is the neck shape specifically as I don't have issues with my solid body guitars, the problem is finger-tip pain - like I have never fretted a guitar before. The action at the nut seems reasonable on all of them although the archtops are all at factory spec, with the exception of the AF155 where I changed the factory nut for a zero glide zero-fret and nut combination. [The buyer of that one had me change it back to the factory nut pre-delivery].

    Can neck shape dramatically alter the approach angle of the finger tips to the fretboard? Would a very slight change in fret shape/height do it? Even barre chords are more difficult/painful.

    Cheers

  5. #4

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    What tommo said. In addition (I have the same two guitars and love them both), the afj95 has vintage (fine) frets and the ar372ce are by jescar.

  6. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by thelostboss
    I have noticed that there is a very significant difference in feel and play ability between Ibanez and Eastman guitars that i own or have owned. The Eastmans have been either 25-inch [AR503] or 24.75 inch [AR371] scale length while the Ibanez have all been 24.75-inch [SJ-300, AF-155, AFJ-957]. Even when strung with similar strings; TI Swings or D'Addario XLs, and set to similar actions; the two Eastman guitars are significantly more difficult to play. Even going to TI Swing 11s on the Eastman 371 it causes more finger pain in the fretting hand than TI Swing 13s on The SJ-300.

    Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated. Could it be something as simple as fret size or material?

    Cheers
    Fret size could make a difference, but I doubt material would in terms of finger pain. The Eastmans have wider nuts and fingerboards and chunkier neck profiles than the Ibanezes. That could make a bigger difference. Also, you say they're set to "similar" actions, but very small differences in string height and neck relief can make a big difference in feel. I'd pay close attention to that (e.g., measure the action at the 1st and 12th frets, measure string relief, compare nut slot depths), and try adjusting action and/or relief to get the two closer than "similar".

  7. #6

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    The overall length of string from tailpiece to tuner matters, unless the string is locked down at the nut and/or bridge.

    The non-vibrating length still stretches and you feel that.

    I don't know if the guitars you're talking about are different in that regard, but if they are, it might be relevant.

  8. #7

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    Compare the neck angle on them, makes a big difference in playability.