The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
  1. #1

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    As the title says : which one would be the appropriate model ? The B3 is the shorter one, leaving a longer stretch of string between the bar and the bridge, by my estimate it’s a little less than an inch between the two models. Does this matter/have a significant effect on the tone ans feel of the guitar ?

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  3. #2

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    I don’t know, but if you want a B3, I have a vintage one laying around waiting for a guitar.

  4. #3

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    my sheraton has the tension bar, my gretsch doesn't. they both have the same width but different depths. the main difference is the feel; the tension bar makes things a fair bit stiffer. that isn't a good or bad thing, and i suppose it can be mitigated with the spring length and such, but it's very noticeable. they both have about the same amount of travel and pitch variation in either direction (say about a whole step and change up or down), it's just easier to pull off without the tension bar.

    but maybe you like more tension, who knows? you get used to it. you could pull off slightly different moves with them. the tension bar handles like a sports car and the non tension bar is like a super cloudy grandpa car. stiff vs squishy, take your pick.

    though i've seen both installed as factory tailpieces on casinos, 330s, 335s and the like, i think it's at least 60/40% in favor of tension bars with thin line guitars. but that's just me looking at old photos and old guitars. neither are uncommon.

    unless something was wrong with the guitar before (or after) installation, i don't think there is a tonal difference between the two, but i've no way to really compare that.

  5. #4

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    According to the Bigsby website the B3 is for thinline semis & hollowbodies, the B6 for large hollowbodies.

    Danny W.

  6. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by ThatRhythmMan
    I don’t know, but if you want a B3, I have a vintage one laying around waiting for a guitar.
    Thanks for the offer - since the guitar in question is not a vintage model I think I'll go with a modern Bigsby if all is decided ....

  7. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny W.
    According to the Bigsby website the B3 is for thinline semis & hollowbodies, the B6 for large hollowbodies.

    Danny W.
    This makes sense in as far as the vibrato hinge is concerned : the hinged plate that is screwed onto the body is a bit shorter on the B3 in order not to protrude out the bottom end.
    I am concerned about the length of the actual body of the unit, what effect this might have on the down-pressure of the strings onto the bridge i.e. the angle at which they pass over the
    bridge. A longer tailpiece makes a difference in string-stiffness, correct ?

  8. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by gitman
    Thanks for the offer - since the guitar in question is not a vintage model I think I'll go with a modern Bigsby if all is decided ....
    You can have it for $100 shipped if you want it. The tail attachment section has a small hairline crack that looks to be from over tightening of a screw. It won’t hurt its functionality, but its there nonetheless.

  9. #8

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    I had the same question recently, thinking I would add a bigsby to an Eastman T146smd. Turns out I won't be doing that, as I lucked into an already Bigsby-equipped Epiphone Sorrento '62 reissue last week. The seller had installed a B3. At least on that guitar, the perfect choice. The arm part (what you grab to activate the trem) was riding a bit low to the body with the stock spring. I ordered a slightly taller spring from black rider, which did the trick.

  10. #9

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    Ok, I know now that it would be either a B6 or a B11 model - if any of you have one lying idle and it’s wasting space in your parts-drawer then drop me line … thanks !