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Hi all,
Do the Peterson strobe tuners require periodic frequency calibration?
What issues, if any, are common with these units? Any "show stopper" failures that they're prone to?
And how exactly do these work? I'm thinking that they may use an AC synchro motor to drive the disc, while the rate of the strobe is controlled electronically based on the fundamental frequency of the input? But what is the Output jack for, on models like the 450?
Any info appreciated!Last edited by WimWalther; 01-14-2024 at 01:08 AM.
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01-14-2024 12:49 AM
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Take a look at Sonic Research before you decide. Turbo Tuner Model ST-300 is a true optical strobe using direct analog signal superimposed on crystal controlled tune frequency with greater accuracy of 0.02 cents.
ST-200 I bought almost 15 years ago has been absolutely bullet proof.
edit: Oh, you're looking at the big ones... never mind...
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I didn't even know Peterson was still producing the old mechanical wheel tuners. Electronic is the way to go, IMO. The Peterson electronic strobe tuners are excellent. Sorry but I can't help with the old ones, never had one. All I could afford back in the stone age was a pitch pipe more or less tuned to A.
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The 450 is this:
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I would assume the output jack on that is the same as the output jack on a pedal tuner. It should just route the input back out to an amplifier, so the unit can be used while playing. Not that practical these days, but back 60 or so years ago it was state of the art. The art has drastically changed its state since then, but it might be fun to play with one of those.
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I'm not aware if they are, or are not.
Originally Posted by sgosnell
But really, what's the difference between a basic $2 Chinese LCD tuner and a $100+ electronic "strobe" tuner? Isn't it usimply down to the manner in which the pitch data is displayed - the former simulates a center-null panel meter, the latter a strobe disc pattern?Electronic is the way to go, IMO. The Peterson electronic strobe tuners are excellent.
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Btw, I bought one of the $2 Chinese tuners, just out of curiosity. I need to gin up a frequency standard to really test it properly, but it seems to work much better than I'd have expected, and far better than any phone app I've tried
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Phone apps work fine, but are limited by the input. The microphone tends to pick up stray sounds which interfere. I have a "pitch grabber" device from Peterson which connects to the mic input of a phone, and clips to the instrument like a clip-on tuner, and gives excellent results. It's clunky to use, though, and I seldom bother with it. I mostly use the Peterson StroboClip or TC Polytune in strobe mode. The strobe is just a method of displaying the frequency, which is usually more precise than just having an LED on or off. Before computer-controlled LED displays were available, a strobe was about the only way of displaying very small frequency differences. Cheap clip-on tuners can certainly work, although their precision isn't always as good as something more expensive. Precision is not free, but it can be inexpensive.
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Here's what I picked up for about $2 on AliEx. It has settings for guitar, bass, uke, violin and chromatic.
The display shows a representation of an analog meter, with a center-null. The entire display, normally green, turns white when the tuning is spot-on.
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Yeah, there are tons of those type tuners on the market. I have several different ones. But they're still not nearly as accurate as the Peterson. If I get the guitar in tune with one of those, then switch to the Peterson, most of the strings will be very slightly off, and will sound much better when tuned via the Peterson. They get close, but not totally precise. Close enough for jazz, or quick returning maybe, but not for intonating.
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Some phone apps work quite well. You can choose what sort of interface works for you. Works on all instruments in real time. I like the TE Tuner overall. Sometimes like the Fender tuner when changing strings. Gives a nice twangy guitar sound to match when initially getting a string in range.
Cheap clip on tuners work OK. Used them for years before seeing the light. Suppose some are accurate but in my experience, they are not so precise. Big gripe: They really burn through batteries.
Peterson strobotuners are the best I've used. They can be used for intonation and performance. Both clip on and pedal models work well. In addition, clip on models batteries last quite awhile.
Life is short. Tuner is a daily use item. For me, want the best available.
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There are clip tuners now that can be charged with a USB C charger. And I always turn mine off after tuning. Originally Posted by Spook410
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Just sold a Peterson tuner, the Stobostomp HD. Large and too many features for my need. Also had their clip-on but the button stopped working consistently.
Now using the Sonic Research ST-300 and a TCE Unitune.
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There are three kinds of "strobe tuner". Originally Posted by WimWalther
Mechanical wheel strobe tuners; Peterson still makes a 12 wheel one for a little less than $6000.
Electronic tuners that have a display presented by LCD screen; these are not true strobe tuners, they compute what a strobe would look like and present (simulate) that on the display.
Electronic tuners that send the analog signal and a reference tune pitch signal frequency to the same light or LED. That light does not receive a strobed signal - the strobe effect is visual to the eye, same as the mechanical strobes. These are true strobes.
Advantages are very easy to read even from a distance in dim lighting, instant response, and higher accuracy...
Sonic Research accuracy 0.02 Cent
5 times more accurate than any of the Petersons (0.1 Cent)
50 times more accurate than the Boss Waza Craft TU-3W (1 Cent)
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Sonic Research.....140$ plus tax .......Dang... i get sticker shock daily. Originally Posted by pauln
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The TC Polytune, and I assume the Unitune also, claim .02 cent accuracy while in strobe mode. I have one, along with a Peterson StroboClip, and I've gone back and forth between them. I can't tell any difference in accuracy. The Polytune display is more difficult for me to deal with, but I really can't tell any difference in the tuning regardless of which I use. I also have a Korg Sledgehammer, an Intellitouch, and a Super snark. These only get the tuning into the ballpark, maybe in the cheap bleacher seats. The Polytune and the Stroboclip always show the tuning still slightly out after being tuned by any of the others. They sit on a shelf, without batteries, most of the time. I powered them up after seeing this thread, and they're still too inaccurate for me.
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I own the Sonic Research ST-200 which I purchased I would also say some 15+ years. It still functions. I also own a Sonic Research ST300 Mini for a pedal board. I was going to say look for a used one but a quick look on line shows folks asking almost what a new one would go for.
I also own the latest Peterson Strobo Stomp HD. It's another great tuner. I bought this one because of Peterson's built in tuning configurations. The SR Tuners can be configured for different offsets but I found the Peterson to be easier when dealing with tunings outside of standard. I use the Peterson HD with a guitar that has a True Temperament fret configuration. Both the latest Peterson and the Sonic R tuners are solidly built, lock in very quickly and have bright displays but I find the Peterson better for outside conditions. I use both the ST and Strobo to adjust intonation. The mini stays glued to the pedal board.
While the SR is a bit more accurate, I don't find that be a significant plus i.e. I can't hear the difference. I also own a Peterson Headstock Tuner and a couple of D'Addario soundhole tuners for my classical and flamenco guitar. I will use headstock tuners but I prefer not to and the jaws on the Peterson headstock tuner don't open up enough to attach to my headless guitar.
You can't go wrong with either the Sonic Research or the Person and I would look for a used Peterson Strobo HD or Sonic Research on Reverb or Ebay.
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I realize this is probably a silly question, but how do you guys deal with strobe tuners not locking in and remaining still? I used to have a Sonic Research tuner on my pedalboard, but for quick tuning in between songs on gigs, I was always fussing with my tuning to get the strobe to stay still. I ended up swapping the Sonic Research for a Polytune. I figured it was close enough. Now my pedalboard remains in the closet most of the time. I've been using the Peterson Strobo HD clip on tuner for home use. I like it, but it drives me mad trying to get the damn strobe to stop moving!
I know the manual says it's normal and okay for the strobe to have some slight movement, but do you guys have any tricks? If it's going to move a little, do you prefer it to be flat or sharp? Thanks!
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IME the strobe stops when the string is correctly tuned. If it's moving, the string is still out of tune. Very small movements of the tuner button are required, you can't just crank it. You have to be much more precise than when using something like a Snark, which is only accurate to maybe a cent. When tuning to .1 cent or less, you have to creep up on it.
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That goes for any tuner that doesn't get direct input from the guitar, it can even apply to my Korg when I connect it to the UST in my Cabaret because the top is so light it'll act as a VLD mic.. Originally Posted by sgosnell
I have the AiryWare tuner on my phone and when I could compare it to an electronic desktop Peterson it gave the exact same results.
Not really surprising; even in an old iPhone like mine (SE 1st gen) the CPU is bound to be a lot more powerful than what gets used in tuners.
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Not silly at all. This used to drive me crazy and I even went back to a dumbed down tuner. But that didn't work out. In the end, I just accepted that if the tuner shows movement more than just a tiny bit, it's not in tune. And if you have tiny movement in different directions (one just a little bit flat, one sharp) still doesn't work when you're playing. I've gotten used to making very small adjustments. And making sure there aren't other problems like loose or worn out tuners and problems at the nut. Overall, it's a little pain for a big pay off in intonation. Originally Posted by D'Aquisto Fan
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Thanks for the replies, everyone. One other question. Do you tend to tune with open strings or 12th fret harmonics or a combination of both? Sometimes it seems like strobe tuners or more stable when tuning at the 12th fret harmonic. Thanks!
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About getting the strobe to stop... don't worry about it, slow movement is very close. Strings change tension with changes in temperature. Tune a string perfectly and then run your finger along the string - it will go flat as the metal expands.
Worst thing in the world is to perfectly tune a cold guitar and hear it go flat as it warms up with play. If you then tune it up, fine, but when you come back from break it will be sharp (cold). If you correct that by tuning it back down while cold, then again it will go flat as it warms up with playing...
The best time to tune is when warm after you're done playing, then next time play it to warm it up into tune.
Tuning on a strobe using the 12th fret harmonics makes the strobe spin twice as fast as the open strings; good for precision tuning but may be too sensitive for ordinary tuning with some fast ratio tuning machines.
If you play all over the neck the best way to tune may be "just Es"...
first open
second at fifth
third at ninth
fourth at fourteenth
fifth at seventeenth
sixth at fifth harmonic
This is the most easily heard way of tuning on a noisy stage if tuning by ear, takes just three seconds to check, three more seconds to adjust...
Never use harmonics at the 7th fret for tuning, those are Pythagorian temperament and not the same as the equal temperament freted 7th fret.
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For intonation, Peterson recommend using 2 different spots on the neck such as the 5th and 17th.
https://www.petersontuners.com/media...tion_Guide.pdf
I'd never use open strings to set my intonation.
I've built/assembled my own guitars since a teenager (1980's).
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I tend to tune at the 5th fret, because it's reasonably close to where I play most of the time. I'm not religious about it though, and sometimes use open strings or the 12th fret, for quicker tuning. The downside to tuning at the 5th fret is that I can't just bring the strings up to pitch, I have to fret, pluck, see the tuner, and repeat multiple times. It's not terribly difficult, though.
With a wound G and a straight saddle, one or more strings will inevitably be very slightly out on intonation, and it's usually the G, at least IME. Tuned open, the string is progressively more out of tune when fretted higher up the neck. That's why tuning at the 5th helps a little. It makes chords played near the center of the neck be a little more in tune, just slightly less dissonance. Not everyone will care, and for quick returning I tend to just use the open strings. One advantage of the TC Polytune is that it allows just strumming the open strings, and showing whether one or more strings are out of tune. It's fine for a quick touchup. But as noted above, if the strobe is moving, the string is out of tune, wherever it's tuned. Desafinado.
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